Days 266-273- Central Australia Trip

Day 266- Murray Bridge, South Australia
Central Australia School Trip- Monday, September 17, 2007

Our first photos of the trip can be seen at:
http://photocast.mac.com/rod.murray/iPhoto/centre-photocast/index.rss
Just click here!

We are enroute to Adelaide, Australia on our long awaited trip to Central Australia with the Year 7 Wesley College annual excursion. Sixty kids, 2 buses, 6 adults, 11 days, 10 nights, 2 drivers/tour guides, 1 cook, many campgrounds, 2 deserts, too tiring!?

We departed the house at 6 a.m. in a taxi for the school and, when all the students had boarded, we were heading west on the M1 through Melbourne, and on through Ballarat, Stawell (where we picked up the kitchen trailer), and Tailem Bend (where I posted letters)

Later in the afternoon we crossed the famous Murray River at Murray Bridge, SA, in time to make Adelaide well before dark. Setting up camp north of Adelaide at the Highway One Caravan Park, with the roar of trucks barreling through, was, I thought, going to be a challenge. But it was amazing to see how our tour company runs these trips. Tents were up (25 of them), dinner prepared, cleaned up and put away in no time, and the students were tucked into beds in good time, after a long day. It was a frosty night and the students were happy to get into their warm sleeping bags.


Day 267- "Journey North"

Wilpena Pound, Flinders Ranges, SA- Tuesday, September 18, 2007

Heading north of Adelaide, we followed the main highway (A1) along the Spencer Gulf towards Port Augusta,, which is rolling country with grain farms that disappear into the distance. We then turned northeast towards the Flinders Ranges and stopped in Hawker for lunch and desert cricket. It was apparent now that this dry country is so different from Melbourne, and lizards wandered about as we ate lunch.
The Ranges country is spectacular, with mountains of purple, orange and red rock that change their colour throughout the day as the sun moves across the northern sky. We arrived at Wilpena Pound campground, set up camp and then hiked through the gorge into the Pound. “Wilpena” is an Aboriginal word meaning “cup”, as the cirque of mountains completely surrounds the area, and the first settlers kept their stock there as no fences were needed. What a spectacular view from the Lookout Track viewing platform. We arrived back at the campground after as dusk settled on the Pound, hungry and tired. This time the fatigue was exercise induced instead of bus induced. We felt that we were truly Outback now, in the real Australia.



Day 268- The Old Ghan

Wilpena Pound to Lake Eyre South, SA- Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Another early rise, except that it was earlier than we wanted since another group in the campground was making an early start (4 a.m.). It actually rained this morning, here in the arid country, twice to be accurate. But the rain lasted for only minutes each time, which is typical of this region, which receives less than 250 mm of rain in a year.
We were on the gravel road by 8 am heading towards stunning Parachilna Gorge and the famous Parachilna 5 Star Hotel, where only the rich and famous stay (we know people of considerable status that stayed here- Sean and Mary Ellen!). The only mutli-star hotels on this trip are the ones in the southern hemisphere sky. The winding, dusty road through the gorge was, at times scenic, at times nauseating…
We finally got back on the flat straight paved road towards Leigh Creek, paralleling the Old Ghan Railway and the original Overland Telegraph Line. It is hard to imagine the life of those who built these important transportation and communication milestones, and those who never made a new life here due to the drought and harsh conditions. The remnants of stone homesteads that sun and wind have reduced to rubble are the only reminders of their lives.
Every kilomtere we head north, the country appears drier and less vegetated, except in creek beds where trees and shrubs abound from the winter rains that were, this year unlike most, generous. The land is flat, very flat. A few towns are scattered along the road. At Leigh Creek, the Stzrelecki Track heads north east to Innaminka, over 500 km away. This is where explorers Bourke and Wills met their demise near the famous “Dig Tree.”
At Lyndhurt, the signs warning travelers of the conditions along the three outback roads are posted: The Oodnatdata Track towards Alice Springs, The Birdsville Track towards Queensland and the Stzrelecki, which heads to outback NSW. It was at Lyndhurst that the pavement, or “bitumen” ended and the rough road began. The 4WD vehicle is the only sensible option here, as the heavy rains of last winter have created many potholes and washouts at the creek crossings. From many kilometers away, road trains and their dust trails can be seen approaching. Our coaches were able to handle the roads without incident, however.
Early in the afternoon we stopped in Maree, where a major railway station was located on the Old Ghan. We lunched and visited the store (the only one!) for water and ice cream, as this would be the last sign of modern civilization for the next 48 hours. Students quickly learned Economics 101- the law of supply and demand when they saw the prices in the store.
We stopped briefly to photograph the Lake Erye Yacht Club boathouse –seriously! (when the salt Lake fills with water, there is a crew of people who sail the lake in catamarans).
We began our journey up the Oodnadata Track, heading into a strong westerly wind, which raised many willy-willies (sand tornados) and a steady stream of orange sand. Stepping off the bus at the Lake Eyre viewing pull off, the wind had gathered strength to near gale force, and the sand immediately caused impaired vision. But the view over this Lake that floods only once every 20 to 50 years was awesome, white salt stretching off to the horizon, as far a one can see. This part of the Lake (Lake Eyre South) is joined with the much larger main portion of the Lake, and is joined by a narrow channel. The wind and sand prevented our search for the nearby Geocache, which I had previously programmed into the GPS.
Onward we drove across gibber plains, which are small pebbles created by wind and mechanical weathering, that are the main surface feature here. Stopping again at another Old Ghan siding and station, Curdiminka, the thought of setting up our bush camp was quickly overturned by common sense as the wind here was as bad, or worse, than at Lake Eyre.
This route passes intermittent natural and man made bores where water in the great Artesian Basin bubbles to the surface or is tapped to water animals. The natural bubblers create mounds that can be seen for many kilometres, and the Aboriginal people used them as their route through this area. The trains on the Old Ghan needed the water as well, and each station had a bore and a water softener to prevent the highly mineralized water from corroding the steam engines.
The bore at Beresford feeds a large pond or billabong, that was surrounded by green trees and bush. Downwind was the old station made of beautiful orange sandstone. Here, the wind was at least bearable, and we set about erecting tents, adding extra pegs as a precaution. To our east was a flat, featureless landscape of gibber, with a large extinct bubbler to the south, and a few hills to the north and west. Sunset was enjoyed while we hiked around the billabong, disturbing the resident cormorants that had somehow found their way here from the sea, almost a thousand kilometres away.
This location is in the eastern side of Anna Creek Station, the largest cattle station in the world, as big as Belgium! From here, until midday Thursday, we would be driving through it.
Dinner was served under the porch of the old train station that we lit by way of the kitchen generator. Later we had a campfire circle (without the fire as the wind was still a concern) and we sang camp songs, watched the stars and planets, and wondered at the Southern Cross.

Day 269- "The Fire in the Stone"

Coober Pedy, SA- Thursday, September 20, 2008

It was another early morning just in time to watch the sun rise over the desert and it was memorable! The wind had dropped off considerably, but the southerly direction kept the chill until well after sunrise. Packing, eating and organizing the buses were completed in short order and all the students and staff walked out to the Track, took some photos, and collected a few gibber rocks as souvenirs.
The buses picked us up and off we went towards Williams Creek- population 10 (and double that if you count the dogs). It is here that the Oodnadata Track continues on toward Marla, and another track heads west towards our destination, Coober Pedy, South Australia- The Opal Capital of the World. Our stop in Williams Creek included quick a visit to the Roadhouse (they were already serving) for JUST a photo op. This is also the northeast corner of the Woomera Restricted Area where rockets were tested. We captured photos here and at the signpost in the centre of town. We contemplated a round of golf too.
Now I have dreamed about visiting Coober Pedy for many years and I was about to see it, experience it for real. Our drive into this moonscape was as surreal as I imagined it, as this is the location for many films set in space. The trip west towards Coober Pedy did not seem too tedious, despite the distance of almost 200 km on the track west from Williams Creek. We spotted a dingo wandering on the side of the road, which was strange as he was on the wrong side of the 5000 km “Dog Fence,” which we crossed later in the morning. We knew we were near Coober Pedy when we began to see mounds of dirt, where miners have dug holes in search of opal.
Arriving in town just past noon at the Oomoona Opal Mine and Underground Backpackers Hotel, we set up for lunch and enjoyed the desert heat (+35°C). The cool temperatures in the underground mine tour were a reminder of the extremes that are experienced here in summer, when days are often well into the high forties. The mine tour was a great way to get us thinking about this underground town and the impact that the discovery of opal back in 1915, by a young teenager named Willy Hutchinson. A film presentation introduced us to the history and science of opal. We explored the mine, which has a couple of large pieces of opal in the walls along the lengthy labyrinth of tunnels. Some tunnels are cut by hand with a pick, and others are cut with a machine.
The tour ended when we walked through a doorway, still underground, into a private home and their underground living room, complete with TV and a bar.
We were then allowed to spend time shopping in their underground shop. The amazing variety of opal colours (and price) was extraordinary, and we did not leave without spending a few $ on souvenirs (actually a way more than a few $).
We boarded our bus and took a tour of the town, which is, as I said, as surreal a place as anywhere on the globe: underground church (we lit candles for relatives at the church in the largest Catholic parish in the country at 600,000 square kilometers), underground hotels, underground shops, school, and main street.
Gathering a bucket of tent pegs, we proceeded to the “noodling mounds”, the only place in town where you are allowed to search for opal without a license. It is for safety reasons that mining not take place near town, as the unguarded holes make walking, especially walking backwards, extremely hazardous. We scattered ourselves around the mounds in search of personal treasure. David, a student, was the first to find opal. Like many in the town, some of the kids were very lucky, but most were not. The best find of the day was by Matheson and Harry, one of my students, who found an incredible piece of blue opal that had formed in the skeleton of a prehistoric seashell. The opal buyer valued it at between $300 and $600. Last week a boy found a piece worth over $6000! Those of us who were unlucky were reluctant to leave! But I had a piece of fire opal (red) that I bought and will treasure, and came home with a few pieces of potch that I found. Leanne, another teacher was handed a bag full of little pieces while shopping on the main street.
Arriving back at the hostel, we watched the sun set over the town, showered the sandstone dust from our now filthy bodies and climbed onto thick real mattresses, the first in almost a week. We slept like angels, and dreamt of a big opals.



Day 270- The Red Centre

Uluru, Northern Territory- Friday, September 21, 2007

Heading north out of Coober Pedy through myriad sandstone rock piles along the Stuart Highway, our adventures in opal country were now over. It was to be a long day with over 800 km to cover before we arrived at Ululru, in the Red Centre of Australia. Stopping first at Marla (the terminus of the Oodnadata Track), then the Northern Territory border for lunch, then west on the Lassiter Highway to towards Uluru and the Red Centre, the time passed quickly. The countryside here is surprisingly green, as rains in the last wet season were somewhat generous here, and the contrast between the plants and red soil was striking. A few hundred kilometers along, we saw a large, distinctive rock, which most of us took for Uluru, but which turned out to Mount Conner. Uluru, it turned out, was still more than a hundred kilometers away. But I was proud to say that with around 70 km to go, I glimpsed it through the rolling hills of red sand. I could not believe it really, as it looked so large, even from this distance. Only a few quick glances are seen over the next 70 km until you are almost upon the Rock, at the resort town of Yulara. I could not believe I was really here.
Camping on grass was a new experience, and after a quick set up, a few of us wandered to the sand dune above the campground for sunset views of Uluru and Kata Tjuta, to the west. Tomorrow was eagerly anticipated.

Day 271- Hundreds, Thousands, Millions

Uluru and Kata Tjuta National Park- Saturday, September 22, 2007

The experience of approaching Uluru leaves one completely speechless (at least I was). Getting off the bus at the foot of the climb up Uluru, Colleen said, “Can you believe we are really here?”
I could not. I also could not speak. The power of Uluru is very strong. My mind had already begun to contemplate the hundred or so years that have passed since this rock was first seen by white explorers. Then I contemplated the deep spiritual significance of this rock to its Aboriginal caretakers of the past 50,000 years. And then, my scientific mind began to wander through the geologic history that stood before me and time, for the moment, stood still. It was, I think, 10 minutes before I could answer Colleen’s question, but only with a barely audible voice.
The group started down the Mala Walk, pausing to take photos, and to respect the sacred areas of the Rock (where we are forbidden to go by Aboriginal Law). The red, the green, the water holes, the rock art- this is an overwhelming experience that I will not ever forget.
We walked only partway round and back to the foot of the climb. The Anganu people request that you do not climb the rock. Today it was a moot point since temperatures were expected to reach +36°C and the climb was closed.

“Please don’t climb Uluru” -Anganu wish

“That’s a really important sacred thing that you are climbing…You shouldn’t climb. It’s not the real thing about this place. The real thing is listening to everything.” –Kunmanara, a traditional owner

The day was not over. The bus circled the rock, and each new angle provides a different perspective on just how big this thing is, how massive, how old. We visited more waterholes and were surprised at how the water falling on this rock collects and nurtures the vegetation around it. The aboriginal teaching areas were as like little chapels to the side of cathedrals, and the eroded rock walls held further unique perspectives. Each stop provided a new way to see the rock, to understand its significance. It was hard leave.

John, our coach driver played Australian balladeer John Williamson's mystical song "Raining on the Rock" for us over the loudspeakers. The song captures the spiritual feeling of being here that my words could not.

"Raining on the Rock"
Music and Words by John Williamson

Pastel red to burgundy and spinifex to gold,
We've just come out of the Mulga where the plains forever roll.
And Albert Namatjira has painted all the scenes,
And a shower has changed the lustre of our land.
And it's raining on the Rock,
In a beautiful country,
And I'm proud to travel this big land,
As an Aborigine.
And it's raining on the Rock
What an almighty sight to see,
And I'm wishing and I'm dreaming that you were here with me.
Everlasting daisies and a beautiful desert rose
Where does their beauty come from heaven knows.
I could ask the wedge-tail but he's away too high,
I wonder if he understands it's wonderful to fly.

It cannot be described with a picture,
The mesmerising colours of the Olgas.
Or the grandeur of the Rock
Uluru has power!

And it's raining on the Rock,
In a beautiful country,
And I'm proud to travel this big land,
As an Aborigine.
And it's raining on the Rock
What an almighty sight to see,
And I'm wishing and I'm dreaming that you were here with me


Later, we traveled a further 50 km to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), which is equally as stunning and as spiritually significant as Uluru. (Geology lesson begins here- skip if you wish!) Despite their proximity, the geological processes at work in its formation are totally different. Whereas Uluru is a sandstone monolith tilted 85° to the east, Kata Tjuta is a complex formation of smooth granite boulders that are cemented together into conglomerate rock that has been eroded into many separate pieces, some huge (300 metres tall) and some very small (1 metre). The main portion of Kata Tjuta has been tilted by only 20°.
Unfortunately, I was now nursing a very sore knee, and I could not make the complete walk down the Walpa Gorge with the group. I sat and contemplated this incredibly powerful place. It was hot and breezy and I sat and studied the rocks.
We headed straight back to the campground, where some went swimming, others did washing and others took showers. Back onto the bus, we departed for the sunset viewing area. This is an amazing experience, and not just for the sunset viewing. Bus groups arrive with white linen tablecloths, wine, champagne and cheese, and other culinary delights. It looked like a 5 star smorgasbord! We had veggies and dip, cheese and crackers and cordial.
We set up along the viewing area just in time to view another Uluru spectacle. The clouds in the western sky intermittently sprayed the rock with varying degrees of sunlight, changing its colour moment by moment. Wow! What a party!
Sadly, our Uluru experience was coming to an end. It was back to the camp for a roast lamb dinner and a campfire circle before bed. This would be a day that would last forever, at least in my memories.

Day 272- “In a Sunburnt Country”

King’ Creek Station- Sunday, September 23, 2007

The drive out from Uluru towards King’ Creek Station begins by heading east along the Lassiter Highway past Mount Conner, another large rock butte that many think is Uluru.
Turning north on the Luritja Highway, we arrived at King’s Creek Cattle Station by noon, took lunch and then set up the tents. The heat was now becoming an issue as the temperature had risen well above 30 °C. The “spring” temperatures were a little above average but an occasional high cloud and a gentle breeze made it all bearable. The Station is a working cattle station/campground/restaurant/hotel and this kind of diversification is common in Australia.
We boarded the bus for Kings Canyon to walk the Creek track to the canyon bottom. Water supplies were replenished before we commenced our trek as the warnings at the trailhead to carry sufficient quantities, to have put on sunscreen and to wear a wide hat are quite explicit. The temperature at the trailhead was 37°C. I hobbled the trail on my gimpy knee, but found it not too difficult to manage the half hour walk. The red and white sandstones of the area are vivid and changed colours with the sun as it hid behind an occasional cloud. The winter rains had brought forth considerable wildflower growth and this additional colour made the canyon walk quite dramatic.
Standing by the shower block, a teenaged boy approached me and asked if I was “Chris.” I said no, that he was mistaken and that I was really from another planet. He obviously recognized me and said, “Have you ever been to Leongatha?” At that moment I recognized James Pellin, oldest son of Danny and Lisa Pellin, with whom we stayed on our first exchange weekend back on my birthday in February. Just another Aussie moment!

Day 273- Sandstone, Songbirds, Spinifex and Sweat

King’s Canyon- Monday, September 24, 2007

The heat had taken its toll yesterday and we all had needed the earlier bedtime the previous night and the morning’s later rise, keeping in mind that an early start was needed to beat the heat at King’s Canyon. The group began its 2 and a half hour walk at the Canyon by 8:30 am with ample water supplies. Due to my gimpy knee, I remained with 2 students unable to do the walk.
Strolling through the trailhead area, the eclectic bird songs, the varied colours of the sandstone and the variety of wildflowers were interesting to explore. I was able to catch up on my Blog and share Macintosh computer stories with another Melbourne teacher who had just finished the walk.
The canyon quickly warmed up in the midday sun and the mercury rose into the high thirties but the group finished the track in a few hours, before it became overwhelming. Hikers were served oranges and fresh water on arrival back at the carpark.
The afternoon was spent soaking up the sun at the pool under +38 °C skies, napping, reading or, as in my case, thinking about the walk I missed in the morning. But there was an alternative- the King’s Creek Station’s Helicopter. After selling my first born, I paid the fare and took my first born with me. After our briefing, we headed over the McDonnell Ranges into Petersen Pound at 3,500 feet. Brumbies, and wild camels were spotted along the creek beds, green ribbons of life across the red earth below. Here, the water in the soft sandstone dribbles from the crevices and feeds the surrounding desert. At Black Rock, the water is drawn from the Ranges, but only at full moon. After a few minutes flying west along the ridge, we were over King’s Canyon. We circled twice over the Canyon, descending as we went. The scenery was spectacular and the flight made me even more envious of the group who had seen it from the ground, crossing the creices, the Garden of Eden spring and pool, where swimmers cooled off.
Returning via the south side of the Range, we first passed over the Aboriginal village of Lilla, then an ancient Aboriginal burial mound, and finally a large group of wild camels. The green rivulets of vegetation that mark the springs that run from the Range to the dry landscape below feed the area like blood vessels. It was, it seemed, a long time in the air, but Mat, who was enjoying his first ever helicopter flight, felt the 30 minutes were worthwhile, as did I (despite the huge hole in my pocket).
After dinner, we were treated to the Stockmen’s Night. First, Ian Cotterill, owner of the station told us his family’s history and his own Aboriginal heritage. A National Geographic film that featured his father’s quest for the family’s original homestead provided further insights. Horses and camels were paraded and we learned so much about early reliance on these animals and about life on the Station. Ian’s family had begun life here on this location in the dearly 1980’s as a young family. The children were educated through the School of the Air. The Station has an airstrip that is regularly used by the Royal Flying Doctors. Unfortunately, it has seen too many evacuations recently, even today when the father of a family was in injured in an accident down the road earlier in the afternoon.
Under the waxing moon, we ate damper and drank billy tea, while the young stockmen demonstrated whip cracking. We also had views of the moon and Jupiter through a large reflector telescope. Finally, we were off to bed as we needed an early rise to make “The Alice” by 10:30 a.m.